A long overdue update

Haven't had the chance to update for a while as we're in the process of pretty significant change. After ranting about making plans for the future I decided the leave the world of freelance journalism (and give up my cherished M (for media) Visa) for an in-house marketing job at a big tech company in Bangkok.

Initially we stayed in Saraburi and I had the unenviable 2.5 hour (each way) commute in addition to a 9.00am - 6.00 pm job for my first tens 10 days, a combination which almost finished me off. However, after a through search, we moved into a nice two bedroom place in Bangkok last weekend...words can't fully express my delight at a new sub-30 minute commute to work.

As yet there is no internet at home hence the mini hiatus in posts, but rest assured I'll be back soon with plenty of content.

As for Saraburi, my in-laws remain there and I envisage we'll be making plenty of trips back at weekends, particularly as the missus is expecting late November/early December and will need some support looking after the little fella as she becomes less mobile. For now, all three (/four) of us are in Bangkok.

Before I sign off, a quick point to a great post at a newly discovered blog by Lat (aka @RatasitC) who covered the delights of the national park in Khao Yai (a place I know well) and curry puffs, a delicacy that originated in Saraburi and is closely associated with the town.

Check out the post here.

Phuket Film Festival 2010

Putting recent (and current) political situation to the side for a moment, Friday marks the start of this year's Phuket Film Festival.

There is sure to be greater interest in the event from inside Thailand (at least) as it provides a destruction from said current political malaise while Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethaku's recent success at the Cannes Film Festival (Wise Kwai has more here) has promoted greater interest in the industry here too.

So without further ado, here is the official festival video preview.



More on the festival in this Bangkok Post article.

Red zone, Bangkok

I'm increasingly spending more time in Bangkok for work - whether that be writing, digital media or arranging my visa. This week it was a day trip on Thursday (on my own) and a return trip on Friday with the missus and little fella in tow.

Given it was Friday we decided to stay overnight to allow us to take the little fella around Bangkok both in the evening and for most of Saturday too.

Next day we headed down to the area-former-know-as-Central-Chidlom, now home to the main red shirt camp in Bangkok, around noon. With me the designated baby carrier (now that we're expecting again) photos are courtesy of my better half.

Before you ask, yes that is a red-shirt clapper in the little guy's hands.

Part out of fun, part out of the missus' sympathy for the reds (her mother is a fairly ardent supporter though my wife generally feels sorry and is understanding of the reds cause) we bought him a clapper.

Does this make him/us reds? Well...he is wearing a yellow t-shirt in red shirt HQ Bangkok...that should answer the question.

Yours truly on carrying duty (most definitely not my, or his, best picture)

Essential products for your average anti-government kitchen...I should probably add that we didn't buy either.

Last time I was here was for a (very) corporate press conference...couldn't be any different now.

There were plenty of monks around like this one with his holy water on wheels set-up.

The queue for a free lunch was unsurprisingly never ending around midday.

Pure contrast

Happy clapper

Board with messages, photos and letter of support

A rare English-language banner for the attention of international press like the camera man in shot.

A woman finds some shade whilst eating her lunch.

The main headline is dissolve parliament, which is supposedly the main focus of the protests (though this varies based on who you speak to)

Bonus pic...Bangkok's youngest Tuk Tuk driver...

Monk ordination ceremony in Saraburi

Here are some recent shots from a ceremony in which two local lads (one of whom I regularly play football with) went into the local temple as monks for a short time, usually anything up to three months.

Around this time of the year - before the Buddhist retreat - this type of ceremony occurs regularly across the country. In pledging to become monks, albeit temporarily, the men bestow great honour on their families...the elder members of which are often reduced to tears. See a good description here.

As with most things in Thailand it is an excuse to get up early (the procession came past our house at 7.00 am), dress up, dance to ridiculously loud music and eat/drink copious amounts - marvellous stuff then.

It's worth noting that invitations are open. Something which, having attended a fair few events in Thailand, my foreign brain still cannot get to grips with. It feels awkward arriving at a bash, celebrating and eating/drinking their food when you're not know to most people and weren't invited - but people here don't care - "the more the merrier", they're usually especially pleased to have a farang (and camera to pose for) about.

On arrival the band is setting up (more on this later)...

The alter is prepared...btw, check out the clock to see just how early a start this is (I literally rolled out of bed for it).

The ceremony kicks off with the guys - heads already shaved - lighting candles to begin with a prayer.

The prayers continue with family, friends, neighbours and uninvited (but welcomed) guests like myself watching over proceedings.

Most people are, however, outside like these shady fellows (who begged for a photo) - soaked in whiskey, fag smoke and morning sunshine - waiting for the boring stuff to finish and the dancing to begin.

The little fella (yes that is a monkey on his back) is on the end of plenty of attention, as ever, while those outside await the next phase.

Prayers over, the two soon-to-be monks are ushered outside from where the group will begin a parade around the temple with singing, dancing and music.

The festivities begin...

The bad is out in full force.

Thais are unique in being able to dance reasonably well on demand, not matter their shape, size or appearance.

The procession then heads for this temple building where the new monks will be ordained.

The little fella poses.

The procession heads over to the temple building which it will dance around three times before the official ceremonial duties begin.

But first there is the procession and dancing.

The crazy guy with the shades if my friend Noi (น้อย) who is one of my missus' cousins. He's your typical whiskey-swigging chap who is always at the centre of the party.

The processions winds it way around the temple building.

The most important part of the parade and celebrations are two monks-in-waiting, shielded from the sun by a set of umbrellas.

A number of the temple's resident monks head over to begin preparations for the final part of the ceremony, after which my friend and his pal will become monks for a short period of time.

More dancing...

Meanwhile the dancing continues...

We left before the final ceremony in which the new monks are ordained - it was just too hot and too early - but came back for some food. Rude at home? Yes, but acceptable out here in Thailand.

Chinese New Year 2010

Today is Chinese new year, a big deal in Thailand where everyone seems to have Chinese blood in the family. The Missus's maternal grandfather is the China-link in the family, so I'm told.

For our little circle, Chinese New Year meant a visit to the local temple, noisey firecrackers (with subsequent tears from a 15 month old), a lot of delicious food and said 15 month old dressed in Chinese robes for large parts of the day.

That's two new years done, one more to go - Songkran, Thai New Year, runs 13-15 April. This year I'll be posting lots more photos and a write-up. I don't think I managed anything in 2009, was too busy having fun and water fighting.

A major incident

A lot of neighbours have been talking about an incident last night.

Saturday was, of course, the King of Thailand's birthday, a date which also serves as Father's Day given that the King is the father of Thailand, yet this incident seems to have stood out the highlight of the weekend.

The incident involves a foreigner (not me, by the way), a lot of alcohol, a notorious local chap and a sizeable dose of misunderstanding.

What could it be?

Late last night, a locals chap came by the house half-cut asking for The Missus - an interesting start to this story, no?

As she was already asleep with The Not So Little Monster, I was summoned instead.

I was taken to the local shop, which doubles as a pub, where, I had been told, there was a farang (foreigner in Thai) who need help but couldn't speak English.

With a matter of seconds, it was apparent this girl - who was staying with a friend in town - had taken a wrong turn and was looking for the main road. I pointed it out and off she went - well, she would have gone then but for ten minutes of heavily intoxicated local men who, having clearly taken a shine to this young, fairly attractive female, asked a load of questions about what was going on.

Locals enlightened and issue resolved, the reluctant centre of attention went off somewhat embarrassed to the main road while I returned home to find half a dozen people excitedly asking me where I'd been and what had happened.

It doesn't take much to spark excitement in a quiet Thai neighbourhood.

Loy Krathong in Saraburi 2009

Last year's Loy Krathong fell a few weeks after I'd arrived in Thailand making it a great, first insight into Thai culture and tradition. We went to a beautiful local river, taking some amazing photos and videos in the process.

A year on and it is still my favourite Thai festival.

Most people probably prefer Songkran, with its week-long, never-ending water fights, but Loy Kratong has the (enjoyably mild) weather and amazing sight of Kratong (boats made from leaves and, well, anything) sailing down the river with candles alight in the dark of the night. That's not even including the legions of Khom lanterns which float away with candles ablaze.

Add to that the traditional Thai costumes, dancing, festivities, etc and you have a truly spectacular time of the year.

So how did I spend Loy Kratong?

Erm, with an impromptu booze up - rare if you know me here in Thailand.

Yep, we left The Little One at home and headed out with a few Thai peeps.

I was sad to have missed the ceremony but I did manage to grab a couples of snaps during the day though they don't rival the sadly grainy night pics from last year.

At least I can say that my Thai is decent enough to allow me to go out for drinks with only the occasional use of English.

Top 100 Thai blogs

It was recently brought to my attention that this blog had entered the hallowed halls of the top 100 hundred Thai blogs charting in at number 49.

The site, devised by Thailand's Lost Boy, aka journalist and one-time Thailand resident Matt Crook, is a list of the most popular/well-read Thai blogs - an idea that, with hindsight, seems painfully obvious yet is incredibly useful and well crafted.

Whilst I'm a fan of such lists - the easiest way to find new content and blogs, for one - I always steered clear of listing in them. After all, Jonny Foreigner is not a glammed up SEO-show pony, despite the journalist/social media consultant day job.

However, after careful reflection (and a quick squint of Google Analytics) it isn't so bad after all, perhaps the plans for an all-singing-all-dancing, fanciful, new blogging project might involve this blog after all.

So, if you're a blogger or enjoy reading about Thailand and you are not familiar with the list, I recommend you take a look here.

PS: a quick glance before putting this post together and I'm shocked to see JF clock in at number 25

An evening with the Red Shirts

A couple of weeks ago, I got word of an event from Thailand's UDD political party, referred to as the Red Shirts, that was taking place in Saraburi that Friday evening.

My keen interest in Thailand politics, coupled with the mother-in-law’s passion for the Red cause, saw us take a family outing to the event (cladding The Little One in red was not my idea, honest).

In the UK and the West, political parties keep in touch with their core supporters at grass-roots level using meetings, luncheons, newsletters and drop-in surgeries – here in Thailand it’s a whole different ball game.

The best way to describe a Thai political event is 'roadshow', it's an event geared towards entertaining whilst party officials, discuss and debate their key topics.

The event included a busy market, selling all things red, many things Thaksin and the usual market goods - food, drink, etc.

The main event was the on stage speeches from a host of senior (so I’m told) Red Shirt officials – although I don't know their idenitifes - props to anyone who can identify them below.

There was, of course, the obligatory sing-song which saw most party official take to the stage in song. I’d pay good money to see British MPs singing on stage – perhaps there's potential for a horrendous, car-crash celebrity talent show: Westminster Idol.

Unsurprisingly I was the only foreigner there. Not wearing red, along with The Missus, I stuck out like a sore. I need not have worried though.

Despite initial thoughts that I’d be instantly disliked for being a foreigner who was photographing and videoing his way through an event designed for Thais, those I came into contact with were friendly and welcoming.

Political rallies are not renowned for being interesting and well attended at home, unlike the Red rally in Saraburi. The sizeable audience was comprised mainly of families and groups of friends who sat eating and drinking whilst watching the events and speeches on stage.

Though everyone was wearing red, I noticed that many were not supporting official UDD wear, some to have just threw on something red - take for example the woman wearing a Rooney 10 Manchester United shirt.

In one respect it is refreshing that so many people take an active interest in politics; however, from what I know about the types of speeches and rhetoric from both the Reds (UDD) and Yellows (PAD) the content is heavily slanted and rarely objective.

Unfortunately my level of Thai is not sufficient for me to translate the content and my translator, The Missus, has no interested in helping out on this one, alas.

My biggest complaint was the location of the event, which required navigating an dangerously busy dual carriage way route. That said, hardened expats will be used to this sort of thing.

A couple of videos I took from the evening are below.





Apologies for the somewhat jittery video quality. This is down to a combination of unsteady hands, the sound and using my Sony Ericsson as my interim-camera while I wait to get a new one.

The good side of Thai people

It’s been a while since my last update, not that I’ve been short of stories recently.

Last week, what is usually a routine and enjoyable trip to Future Park, a shopping mall in the Northern Bangkok suburb of Rangsit, became a story which illustrates some of the positive things about living in Thailand.

First we have the ‘only in Thailand’ scenario.

We routinely entered a petrol station for a fill up, with The Missus diving out of the car for the loo while I continued on to be served by a young Burmese lad, who looked well under the legal age for working.

The lad managed to ‘accidental’ serve an extra 30 baht of gas. Although The Missus felt it was an honest mistake, I suspected it to be his way of supplementing his daily wage (which is probably only around 100 baht), made possible when he spotted a lone foreigner pulling in.

Despite a lack of loose change to hand, we poured out the shrapnel and gave him an extra 30 baht to prevent it being taken from his wage.

I didn’t mind this, I regular tip staff and would happy have tipped him a little extra, but this wasn't the only influence on our day.

After a normal journey we pulled into our destination car-park with the car beginning to spasm and repeatedly stall. We quickly pulled into a space, realising that the lad had filled our diesel car with unleaded petrol.

I’m quite sure giving us the wrong fuel was an honest mistake however, given the type of damage this typically causes, I began to wonder how much our fill up would cost beyond the extra 30 baht.

The Missus called her Dad who, as the senior office at one of Saraburi’s police stations, is a well very connected and influential man (the significance/important is a separate post itself). He made a few calls to sort it telling us to go off shopping and return in a couple of hours.

After shopping, meeting up with FIL and waiting some time in the car park, the police mechanic arrived to fix us up. We had blocked a number of cars in but, in true Thailand style, they were not bothered and, along with an assortment of security guards, cleaners and Future Park staff, they got stuck into helping us out.

The security guard, mechanic (in standard Thai crap shorts) and a passer-by get to work

While back home, most people are concerned with themselves, “you’re blocking me in, I need to get out”, it is always refreshing to see the attitudes of Thais who often help each other out.

A snapshot of the pandemonium we caused

Once the vehicle was winched up, we were taken back to the mechanic's garage (aka his house) in Saraburi where we were treated to food, beers, whiskey and sparkly conversation, in Thai of course.

The car was fixed within two hours and, inclusive of the 2 hour tow from Rangsit, including labour, petrol, etc, the grand total was a incredible 4,000 baht (£100). I’m not sure about prices in the UK these days but I’m pretty sure this wouldn’t even cover the tow back, let alone any work.

Add that we had been entertained and fed, and the amazing attitude of those around us and you can almost say the money was not so badly spent after all.

Much as I often berate Thai people for gossiping, staring and a lot of other things, they (outside of major cities, in particular) can be are incredibly kind and well meaning. At times, life in this country can be refreshing - just don't start me on the idiots I bump into at Tesco Lotus though.

Thai pop music

Thai pop music certainly different to what we are used in the West.

Despite my initial dislike of the genre, I've become more appreciative and I can even say I like a couple of songs.

What's unclear is why.

Could it be the result of an eight-month drip-drip effect (the same songs are played EVERYWHERE), me losing my music taste or is Thai pop actually good music?!

I'm all about enlightenment so will regularly feature a few of the most popular songs to give you a taste of what they call music in Thailand.

Here is the first - enjoy.

Thai pop isn't to be confused with Thai music. The latter is the country's traditional music which can be heard at ceremonies and festivals where it is accompanied by traditional Thai dancing.

Get to know Saraburi, Thailand (สระบุรี)

Few people know that my hometown in Thailand is Saraburi (สระบุรี). To those at home I live "just outside Bangkok".

Those living in Thailand have at least heard of Saraburi but generally it is a place they pass when travelling between Bangkok and the north of Thailand by bus, train or the motorway.

Saraburi doesn't make the cut of most travel guides, where it does the description is incredibly brief yet it has a lot going for it.So, without further ado, here’s my introductory guide to my home town formerly know as The Place Just Outside Bangkok.

For many Saraburi is just another town on a road sign [Credit]

I like Saraburi, whilst I realise I'm duty bound to say this, it is the truth. The city and its people are friendly and welcoming to foreigners as there are so few non-Thais living here. They are often genuinely interested in speaking to you in English, or better still Thai.

For a young family, like mine, the town offers an urban lifestyle without the constant hustle and bustle of a big city, like Bangkok. The city itself has ample shopping malls, sports centres, schools, superstores alongside more traditional Thai authenticities such as markets, temples, large scale festivals (like Songkran, Loy Krathong) and fantastic local cuisine.

Bangkok is close enough to commute so heading into the big smoke to visit the embassy, for work, for pleasure or to meet friends is entirely possible and easily done.

Away from the main city is a province filled with excitement and adventure, a visit to the Saraburi province is an ideal trip for anyone with an interest in nature or a desire to escape Bangkok and explore authentic Thailand.

SaraburiSaraburi is in central Thailand roughly 106km north of Bangkok. Thailand’s capital city is, in layman’s terms, a 90 minutes bus ride although the sprawling Rangsit suburb, with shopping malls, temples and Thammasat University, can be reached inside an hour.

Saraburi is thought to have been built in the 16th century, growing from a main road used by the Khmer for transporting goods and produce. The modern city’s importance is still linked to transportation, Highway Route 1, which begins in Bangkok, passing through the heart of the city on its way north to Chiang Rai and Highway Route 2 runs from Saraburi to Nong Khai, Issan, in the north.

Thankfully there is more to Saraburi than just transport links and closeness to the capital city, otherwise I might as well head back to Croydon.

Attractions

The province is best known for its glorious sunflower fields (in season) and it’s for this reason that the sunflower is the province's symbol.

Saraburi sunflowers in bloom

Saraburi city and its province were important towns in the past so the region is rich with historical architecture and Buddhist temples, Wats.

The most notable temple is Wat Phra Buddha Bat which houses one of Thailand's most notable Buddha footprints. The temple is a recommended visit as it is rarely overrun by tourists, instead maintaining its authenticity and a fascinating and calm insight into everyday Buddhism and a typical Thai temple.

The Buddha footprint at Wat Phra Buddha Bat [Credit]

Further north of Saraburi city, the venturing traveller will find quintessential Thailand, and with it vineries, highlands, national parks, waterfalls - Namtok Chet Sao, the seven sisters waterfall, is typical of the area.

Namtok Chet Sao Noi is a small waterfall at Tambon Muak Lek, on the same route as Namtok Muak Lek and continue on for another 9 kilometres on an asphalt road. The waterfall flows along a stream and has 7 levels. The height of each level is 4 metres and offers a spacious shady swimming area.

[Source: Tourismthailand.org]

After almost eight months here I’m still exploring and learning more about the province, but I love that authentic culture and adventure are so close to my door. I certainly recommend the wider province, in particular northern areas, for anyone seeking authentic Thai culture and an excuse to escape Bangkok.

The province is also famous for its marble and stone quarries, products are supposedly available at the lowest rates in all of Thailand. Though how you get a slab of marble back through customs without exceeding the baggage limit, I’m not entirely sure.

A nice concise list of major attractions can be found here.

Detractions

Reasonable real-estate prices and the city’s close proximity to Bangkok encourage businesses to locate warehouses and factories in the province. For us locals, this brings a daily deluge of lorries and trucks hurtling down the highway and local roads and, sadly, added pollution.

Well paid job opportunities are limited in the city. There are foreigners in town that are not employed as a teachers in the many local schools. Native residents aspiring greatness and financial wealth are likely to move to Bangkok, or take up one of the few high-flying, well paid positions at a local cement factory or legal firms.

Nightlife

Saraburi does have a bar street and a number of nightclubs but it’s unlikely to make anyone in Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Mai or Phuket move over anytime soon. Half a dozen late night bars and a handful of clubs make up the town’s nightlife area. Don’t expect to find go-go bars here,Whitehouse is the stand out bar with its young, attractive bar staff, just don't expect prompt customer service here.

One major one benefit/problem (depending on personal preference) of a lack of farang is that foreigners stick out easily. Expect to receive plenty of attention from the locals when out partying.

Sport

Saraburi FC is the city’s semi-professional football side, a newcomer to Thailand’s Division Two (the third tier of the national football league, which is divided into five regions based on geography). Competing in the Central & Eastern region, the team is sitting in 6th place, very respectable considering this is the team’s maiden season.

Away from the glitz and glamour of Saraburi FC, locals head to the city’s sports centre for a kick-about most days of the week. Locals are welcoming to rare foreign visitors.

The sports centre is also host to mass daily aerobics sessions, a number of gyms, a swimming pool and various other sporting pursuits. You can find more information in this post.

Sports centres are a feature of any major towns/cities in Thailand

Local grub

Curry puffs were born in Saraburi, first made by a local teacher looking to supplement her income. The delicacy, which looks like a small Cornish pasty, is available across Thailand and is usually filled with taro, chicken or pineapple.

Curry puffs are native to Saraburi [credit]

The puffs come highly recommended and definitely are worth a try although, like much of the culinary temptation in Thailand, excessive consumption will affect the waistline.

Likelihood of farang encounters

Low – non-Thais are officially 0.6% of the population.

Travellers seeking the sight of farang residents are advised to make for the city’s Tesco Lotus superstore where the curious creature can be observed.